Sleeping under the star

Lately, during moments of introspection, I frequently conjure a mental image of a celestial expanse—a tapestry of brilliantly shining stars against the inky backdrop of night. These luminous beacons exist at the intersection of reality and aspiration, encapsulating the dreams shared by two liberated hearts. Our presence at Big Bend Park, where the United States’ most profound nocturnal sky extends overhead, is a tangible testament to this shared reality. Simultaneously, it fuels our collective dream of embarking on mystical journeys together, traversing horizons that remain enchanting even in the twilight of our years.

 

Sleeping under the stars

In a pact forged between close friends, two couples committed to embarking on a shared honeymoon adventure. The occasion was doubly significant: it marked not only the wedding day of my dear friend but also commemorated our own marriage a decade earlier. A week after her wedding, we rendezvoused in San Antonio, poised to explore the rugged beauty of Big Bend Park. Our journey unfolded along winding roads, our two cars covering nearly eight hours until we arrived in Alpine—a quaint town that served as our gateway to Terlingua. From Alpine, we veered onto a narrower road, winding our way toward Terlingua, approximately an hour’s drive from the park’s entrance. Terlingua, our chosen base, stood as the closest lodging option available. All other accommodations—hotels, inns, and Airbnbs—within the park and near the entrance had been fully booked well in advance. We set out around noon, so by the time we arrived, darkness had settled in. Curious why this place boasts the darkest sky in the United States? Allow me to explain: the entire Chihuahuan Desert region is preserved, towns are scattered far apart, and houses are sparse. At night, not a single streetlight illuminates the roads. Consequently, we promptly located a supermarket in the heart of Alpine (which was still open) to purchase ingredients for our evening meal and drinks, knowing that once we ventured deeper, no eateries would be open. 

Upon arrival, we exchanged satisfied smiles, affirming that our decision to spend the night in Terlingua was indeed fitting. Amidst a vast expanse of land, the only “dwellings” were the skeletons of two abandoned buildings. We lay down under the star-studded sky, our dreams intertwined with the constellations above, and drifted into a peaceful slumber.

The dwelling, optimally designed for desert living, is divided into two bedrooms located at opposite ends, a bathroom, and a central area that serves as a combined living room and kitchen. The nearest neighboring house is several miles away, underscoring our small presence in the vast expanse of the desert.

Upon arrival, we promptly unloaded our belongings. The men in our group took charge of setting up the living area, lighting lamps, positioning a large table near the entrance, and igniting the stove. The arid climate facilitated the quick burning of the collected firewood. My friend and I busied ourselves with preparing ingredients for an outdoor barbecue.

Our simple dinner consisted of smoked pork, cooked over aromatic firewood, a fresh vegetable salad, and chicken soup. This meal, enjoyed under the flickering light from a mobile phone and a sky full of stars, was accompanied by laughter and camaraderie, creating memories that deeply touched our souls.

I recall the first time we stargazed together in San, Bat Xat, Lao Cai, where the sheer number of stars overhead left us in awe. In Terlingua, this sense of wonder was amplified manyfold. The stars here were not only numerous but also shone brightly, like neon lights, adding a surreal quality to the experience. These stars, we realized, were a testament to the vast, living universe they inhabited.

On the second night, my friend’s newlywed husband set up a telescope near the dining table, allowing us all to observe the stars more closely. My friend and I climbed onto the vehicle’s trunk, spread out blankets and pillows, and lay down to admire the beautiful stars. We even gave names to some of them, laughing like children at our own creativity. The occasional cold wind made us shiver and huddle closer together, but the warmth of the experience kept our spirits high.

Waking up in the desert 

  

At the break of dawn, we arose early to embark on our journey to Big Bend Park. The morning vista was as awe-inspiring as the spectacle we had witnessed the previous night. It was at this juncture that we came to the realization of our true location – in the heart of the desert, encircled by the indigenous flora of this arid landscape. The entire panorama was awash with a golden glow, a result of the sunlight reflecting off the mountains, soil, and rocks.

Prior to our departure, I had the opportunity to engage in a conversation with the landlady. She shared that her husband was a botanist, which had prompted their family to relocate and reside here for over a decade. This region, characterized by its infrequent rainfall and perpetual dryness, offered limited services and could be perceived as mundane. However, she expressed a deep sense of spiritual alignment with this place. After all, we, as humans, are merely a minuscule fragment of nature. The ability to coexist harmoniously with nature in such locales is indeed a treasure of immeasurable value.

Upon arriving at Big Bend Park, we went to the information room to get a map. There are many trails (walking paths) here for visitors to choose from. As we are not “professionals”, we only chose a short trail with a gentle slope. We leisurely followed the Lost Mine trail, taking our time to look around, take photos, rest, and have light meals along the way. As a result, it took us nearly 6 hours to complete the hiking trip.

 

Big Bend National Park, situated in the southwestern region of Texas, is a vast expanse that includes the entire Chisos mountain range and a significant portion of the Chihuahuan Desert. Spanning an area of 3,242 square kilometers, it stands as the most extensive conservation region for the Chihuahuan Desert’s terrain and ecosystem. The park’s vastness naturally evokes a sense of overwhelming emptiness.

As we ventured deeper into the park, we found ourselves gradually acclimatizing to the unique desert winds. The arduous journey to the summit of the Chisos mountains, which initially induced feelings of fatigue and frustration, eventually gave way to a sense of exhilaration and awe as the landscape unfolded in increasingly breathtaking vistas the higher we ascended.

From our elevated vantage point, all human emotions – sorrow, fear, anger, and even love – seemed to diminish in the face of the boundless natural world. This perspective fostered a profound sense of insignificance and liberation, encapsulated in the thought, “I’m nobody!” This realization allowed us to envision the possibility of continual self-renewal, unencumbered by any prejudiced limitations.

In the grand scheme of things, we are but minuscule entities, leading fleeting lives and possessing limited understanding of the world that we are gradually exploring but can never fully comprehend. The mountains, the sky, and the soaring eagles remain indifferent to our identities. Stripped of our identities, wealth, status, and obligations, we found ourselves in a state of complete emptiness. Paradoxically, this emptiness engendered a sense of strange comfort.

Kayaking along the border 

 

Following a strenuous mountain climb on the previous day, we opted for a less physically demanding activity on the second day – a kayak tour. This experience proved to be nothing short of extraordinary! The tour took us through the Santa Elena Canyon in Big Bend National Park, Texas, where the Rio Grande River, cradled between ancient limestone cliffs, forms the border between Mexico and the United States. Kayaking on this river meant navigating directly along this international boundary.

The journey from the town to Santa Elena, a drive of approximately an hour and a half along a mountainous road, offered captivating views of the untamed beauty characteristic of expansive desert landscapes. The roadside was dotted with resilient desert flora such as larrea tridentata bushes, yucca trees, Opuntia cacti, and wild grasses, creating a picturesque panorama.

In early May, the river’s water level was exceptionally low. At certain points, we were compelled to disembark from our kayaks and manually pull them along to avoid getting stranded. In addition to kayaking, the area offers hiking trails along both banks of the river and opportunities for swimming. However, due to deep water sections where hikers might have to wade through knee-high water and potentially slippery rocks, most people prefer to stay near the expansive beach areas. For those seeking to explore further, kayaking remains the preferred mode of travel.

During our return journey, an inadvertent mishap occurred when my husband accidentally dropped the drone into the river. We halted our progress and initiated a search, fortuitously managing to recover it. Our tour guide, a non-native who has resided here and conducted tours for numerous years, remarked that she had encountered a myriad of individuals, yet none displayed the level of enthusiasm we exhibited upon retrieving a lost item. His response, punctuated with laughter, was, “Wherever we venture, the creation of memories is imperative!”. Her laughter resonated throughout the canyon in response.

Indeed, I firmly believe that our gains invariably outweigh our losses. The memories we forge during these experiences are invaluable treasures that accompany us throughout our lives. They are, without a doubt, the most precious keepsakes we carry with us.